First night in Baku
27th May 2019
Finally made it! Getting through the airport was easy although getting a local SIM card was quite an official process...passport check for a pay as you go SIM. Airport bus was convenient and cheap, the equivalent of 75pence for the 25 minute ride to the middle of town.
The usual chaos and confusion of "where are we?", when we got off the bus but I quickly determined the way to the Metro station. Already, the question of "are you Arsenal?" was being asked by passer bys. At the Metro station, I dropped a £10 note which a policeman picked and inspected. He then handed it around his 3 colleagues and they were curious about the plastic feel and see through section. I was beginning to wonder if I would get it back....of course, I did! They then helped us get the right ticket and pointed us in the right direction. After nearly 30 hours with no sleep, I was a bit brain fogged and managed to get us on the wrong Metro! Many eyes were looking at us (probably because we looked dishevelled and tired), but as were to find out during our time, most of them were very polite and pleasant Bakuvians.
One correct train later, we had a short walk to our hotel. First pleasant suprise of the trip was our being upgraded to having our own room each. I could not get in the shower quick enough! Pulling on clean clothes and smelling fresh afterwards was such a relief!
We walked down to the central part of town and got our first view of the famous flame towers which were instantly recognisable.
Met up with another Gooner and headed into the suggested area for Arsenak friendly bars. Unsurprisingly, we went to an Irish bar to watch the Aston Villa v Derby County play off final. There were a number of Arsenal fans in the bar including some chatty female Gooners on the next table and the atmosphere of being in Baku for the Europa League Final was well and truly growing. We were all exhanging stories about our travels to Baku but were all in agreement that we would try to leave the negativity behind and start to enjoy the build up to the game.
All was going well and some of the lads in the bar started some chants, and even I started a few (who'd have thought that a year ago??). Then some of the guys started off on a homophobic chant and I went over to them to politely ask them to stop. In the main, they did, but one guy did not stop. His friends were trying to get him to stop and tried to take him outside. While he was leaving he shouted vile slurs against me and everyone in the bar stopped and heard....some even egged him on. I was gobsmacked that an Arsenal fan would treat one of their own that way. I did not regret what I did by asking them to stop and I would do it again if I had to. Best to call it out when you hear it and usually people around you will.
Undettered, we went to a fancier looking bar across the road which was deserted, but the staff were friendly and interested in our journey to Baku and asking about life in the UK. The barman insisted on getting a picture and, as we find out soon enough, many people would want their picture taken with us!
I was starting to flag and needed to eat. We ate the first of many kebabs during week....the meat was wonderful, well seasoned and plentiful. No beer in the kebab restaurants though, so we went back to the Irish bar for a final beer or two before finally heading back towards the hotel for the first sleep in over 40 hours!
Finally made it! Getting through the airport was easy although getting a local SIM card was quite an official process...passport check for a pay as you go SIM. Airport bus was convenient and cheap, the equivalent of 75pence for the 25 minute ride to the middle of town.
The usual chaos and confusion of "where are we?", when we got off the bus but I quickly determined the way to the Metro station. Already, the question of "are you Arsenal?" was being asked by passer bys. At the Metro station, I dropped a £10 note which a policeman picked and inspected. He then handed it around his 3 colleagues and they were curious about the plastic feel and see through section. I was beginning to wonder if I would get it back....of course, I did! They then helped us get the right ticket and pointed us in the right direction. After nearly 30 hours with no sleep, I was a bit brain fogged and managed to get us on the wrong Metro! Many eyes were looking at us (probably because we looked dishevelled and tired), but as were to find out during our time, most of them were very polite and pleasant Bakuvians.
One correct train later, we had a short walk to our hotel. First pleasant suprise of the trip was our being upgraded to having our own room each. I could not get in the shower quick enough! Pulling on clean clothes and smelling fresh afterwards was such a relief!
We walked down to the central part of town and got our first view of the famous flame towers which were instantly recognisable.
Met up with another Gooner and headed into the suggested area for Arsenak friendly bars. Unsurprisingly, we went to an Irish bar to watch the Aston Villa v Derby County play off final. There were a number of Arsenal fans in the bar including some chatty female Gooners on the next table and the atmosphere of being in Baku for the Europa League Final was well and truly growing. We were all exhanging stories about our travels to Baku but were all in agreement that we would try to leave the negativity behind and start to enjoy the build up to the game.
All was going well and some of the lads in the bar started some chants, and even I started a few (who'd have thought that a year ago??). Then some of the guys started off on a homophobic chant and I went over to them to politely ask them to stop. In the main, they did, but one guy did not stop. His friends were trying to get him to stop and tried to take him outside. While he was leaving he shouted vile slurs against me and everyone in the bar stopped and heard....some even egged him on. I was gobsmacked that an Arsenal fan would treat one of their own that way. I did not regret what I did by asking them to stop and I would do it again if I had to. Best to call it out when you hear it and usually people around you will.
Undettered, we went to a fancier looking bar across the road which was deserted, but the staff were friendly and interested in our journey to Baku and asking about life in the UK. The barman insisted on getting a picture and, as we find out soon enough, many people would want their picture taken with us!
I was starting to flag and needed to eat. We ate the first of many kebabs during week....the meat was wonderful, well seasoned and plentiful. No beer in the kebab restaurants though, so we went back to the Irish bar for a final beer or two before finally heading back towards the hotel for the first sleep in over 40 hours!
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